Thirty years after copper mines were exhausted in Bisbee, this mile-high community with cooler temperatures continues to attract tourists and provide a low-key lifestyle for government workers, hippies and retirees.

Coupled with its Cochise County neighbor of Tombstone, these two towns rich in Arizona history are ideal for an overnight from the Phoenix area. Just take I-10 east through Tucson to Arizona Highway 80 at Benson, then south past Tombstone to Bisbee, roughly 220 miles. You can hit Tombstone on the way back.

After passing through Mule Pass Tunnel, you’ll be struck by the picturesque scene of well-maintained homes and businesses stacked up on steep mountainsides in Old Bisbee. There are several bed-and-breakfasts, but for a real taste of historic Bisbee many tourists choose the Copper Queen Hotel. Built in 1902, it was the gathering place for dignitaries and weary miners, just a few steps from notorious Brewery Gulch.

A word of caution if you stay at the Copper Queen, which boasts of having hosted visits from Teddy Roosevelt and John Wayne. We had a fourth floor room, which features extremely low, slanted ceilings. So if you’re six feet tall or even a little less, watch your head!

Today, the bawdiness of Brewery Gulch, once home to some 50 saloons, is gone. Brewery Avenue is lined with a few neighborhood bars, such as St. Elmo’s, and souvenir shops. One of the entrepreneurs, David Garske, is a mineralogist who sells rocks of all sorts. He’s been there for 26 years.

“You could say there are more characters per square foot in Bisbee than maybe in any other city,” Mr. Garske says. “An old-timer came by here recently. He must be in his 90s. He looked out at the parking lot and said that’s where the wicked place was.”

Any trip to Bisbee wouldn’t be complete without a tour of the Copper Queen Mine. The one-hour and 15-minute tour costs $13.03 and takes you 1,500 feet into the once highly productive copper mine. You straddle a train that slithers through tunnels, which in some places are barely wide enough. It’s about 47 degrees in the mine and you’re equipped with a hard hat, a slicker and a battery-powered light. Wearing a light jacket or sweater is recommended.

Julin “Kelly” Castillo, who retired in 1993 after having worked in underground copper mines in Bisbee and Superior for, he says, “30 years and 10 months,” is the guide. “Let’s go break some rock,” he says, as the train lurches forward.

Pay in the bygone era was $3.50 a day for a 10-hour shift. “This is a much better job,” Mr. Castillo says of his role as a tour guide.

Bisbee’s Heyday

In their heyday, Bisbee mines produced nearly three million ounces of gold and more than eight billion pounds of copper, plus some silver, lead and zinc. But by 1975, mining operations became unprofitable, the mines closed, and the Bisbee population shrunk from 20,000 to about 6,000. Government — including state, county (Bisbee is the Cochise County seat), city and federal — provides by far the most jobs in Bisbee. In 2002, of 3,380 workers, some 1,475 were employed in the public sector.

A tour of the town for $7.60 takes you past some well-preserved Victorian buildings, ruins of brothels, old churches, a band shell, through streets too narrow for two vehicles to pass each other, plus a peek at the Lavender Open Pit Mine. The driver seemed to be in a hurry and wouldn’t stop or even slow down for pictures. Or you can do a walking tour, taking in art galleries, restaurants, coffee houses, bookstores and specialty shops.

We made the drive from Phoenix in less than four hours, arriving in time for lunch at the Prickly Pear Café, which features some tasty wraps and salads. Dinner at the Copper Queen Hotel was less than special, though nicely presented with an attentive staff. The New York strip steak with port wine sauce was a bit chewy, but the bread pudding dessert made up for any other shortcomings.

By the way, don’t trust the Internet listings because some restaurants may not be open anymore.

After dark we ventured back to Brewery Gulch, and hiked up about 50 steps to Hot Licks Barbecue and Blues Saloon, populated by an eclectic mix of locals and a guitar player who said he was in from Phoenix for a one-night gig.

Other attractions in Bisbee include the Historic Copper Mining Museum and the Muheim Heritage House. Among the upcoming events are: Bisbee Wine and Fiber Arts Festival, Oct. 8; Bisbee 1000 – “The Greatest Stair Climb,” Oct. 15; and the Annual Historic Home Tour, Nov. 26-27.

Tombstone

The next morning we drove 20 miles to Tombstone, which features more gun fights in 2005 than it ever did during the Wild West era of the Earp brothers and Doc Holliday. Two groups stage three shoot-outs a day, plus at 2 p.m. there is a re-enactment of the fabled gunfight at the O.K. Corral. We opted for the one conducted over the old Toughnut Mine.

Breakfast at the Longhorn Restaurant and lunch at Big Nose Kate’s 1880 Saloon were delicious, inexpensive and filling.

Tombstone’s Helldorado Days come up Oct. 21-23. What started out as the town’s 50th anniversary celebration in 1929 is Tombstone’s oldest tradition, featuring a parade, re-enactments, fashion shows, a carnival and live music.

Though Tombstone got its name as the town too tough to die after silver mines petered out, locals are fighting another battle. The National Park Service is threatening to pull Tombstone’s status as a National Historic Landmark because of too many fake facades and bogus dates painted on newer buildings.

A grizzled resident riding a bicycle points a bony finger at buildings and shouts out to tourists, “Check the veracity. Check the veracity.” —